Ben Nevis via Tower Ridge

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In May 1880 an ascent of Ben Nevis by Naismith and two companions resulted in a national press headline of "First Ascent of Ben Nevis - without Guides". At this time the summit Observatory and Tourist Path had not yet been built, and it was a further 12 years before the first rock climb on the north face was put up. In 1883 the Observatory was built, and exploration of the north face was starting - Whymper (of Eiger fame) wrote in 1884 "This great face is one of the finest pieces of crag in our country, and it has never been climbed, though every now and then adventurous ones go and look at it with wistful eyes.".

However, he was wrong! In 1892 the Hopkinsons from Manchester had been busy. On September 3rd John and his sons Edward and Bertram walked up to the bottom of the north face. They ascended Tower Ridge as far as the Great Tower and traversed right onto the west face (the normal route now traverses left), and up a narrow chimney. However at this point a steep pitch stopped them and they reversed their route. The returned the next day with another son, Charles, and descended to the Great Tower and their previous high point. They continued the descent which was thus the first route on the north face. It was 18 months later that the first ascent of the route was made, by Collie. He seems to have been unaware of the Hopkinsons descent. However, his party came across nail scratches left by the Hopkinsons which must have given them food for thought. They too climbed the Great Tower by the west and eventually completed the first ascent, and first winter ascent. They took about 5 hours which is still a good time for winter conditions - though these days the number of climbers can cause delays especially at the bottleneck of Tower Gap!

This is one of the longest climb in the UK, and whilst mostly quite easy saves all the hardest bits for the final section. The setting is dramatic and to cap it all one emerges on the plateau of the highest mountain in the country.

I climbed this route one year in September. Shortly before 8am I was waiting for my two companions at the golf course car park. The sky was blue with only a faint wisp of cloud over the top of the Ben. I was listening to Radio 3 when the roads summary came on. I listened with glee as I heard that the road from Otley (where I worked at that time) up the Wharfe valley to Burley was flooded! England was sinking under a deluge and here was I sitting in the sun one of the wettest places in the country!

My companions arrived and we started the long trudge up to the CIC hut. When we arrived the wind generator was screeching as violent squalls buffeted us. This didn't seem a good omen. We ate and drank, and then set off up the scree to the Douglas boulder and up it's East flank. We relieved ourselves and roped up. A devious and cunning route brought us to the ridge just above the East chimney. This was a very exciting moment, and as I admired the view northwards I realised that 'Nevis View' was clearly in sight! We gradually the ridge, mostly moving together but pitching in one or two places. Eventually we reached the foot of the Great Tower, a ferocious-looking obstacle. However, a little way up was the Eastern Traverse which took us to the 'cave' pitch. At last - here was a place where being fairly short was an advantage! We wiggled our way up, out onto a ledge from where we scrambled up onto the top of the Great Tower.

This is one of the most exciting places I have been. We were surrounded by dramatic rock scenery, and the exposure gave the feeling of being on a ship sailing through space. Additionally I was able to check that 'Nevis View' was still in place! Despite the appalling sounds at the CIC hut there was very little wind, of which we were exceedingly glad as we carefully worked our way along to Tower Gap. Apparently this is now a more formidable obstacle than it used to be, due to a large block having dropped thus making the gap deeper. Here our leader took out his special 'Tower Gap sling' - an enormous sling tied from tape which could be dropped into the crack nearest the edge and around the rock. With that fantastic belay we slid down into the gap one by one. Here much longer legs would have been rather useful! Once we were all safely in the gap we moved on towards the headwall. This looks very steep but the route slants across it and soon we were on the plateau stowing harnesses, helmets and the rope.

Here the wind was stronger and quite cold. We headed to the summit and crawled into the shelter. A couple followed us in. They had come up one of the most masochistic routes - from the car park at the top of Glen Nevis. The chap turned out to be a soldier (recovering from injury or illness), accompanied by a very boyish-looking woman. He was carrying a huge pack, and proceeded to get out a 'Mobile' phone - a very large, heavy and old-fashioned one. As he held the base unit outside his girlfriend phoned home - 'Guess where I am' and so on! Fortunately they left before we were unable to contain our laughter any longer!

Eventually we made the move and headed down the mountain. Once back at the car it was nearly dark, and I headed to the Nevis Bank Hotel for hot food - lots of it! This was one of the best days I have ever had on the hills, and one I very much hope to repeat some time.