Binnein Mor, Binnein Beg and Na Grugaichean

Glencoe & Ardgour Routes · Routebook · Home

These three mountains are at the eastern end of the Mamores, and Binnein Mor is the highest mountain in that group. It has a wonderfully narrow summit crest and is in a wild and apparently remote setting, though from Kinlochleven or Mamore Lodge it is fairly accessible using the various stalkers paths which are part of the joy of this area.

I started from Mamore Lodge as it saves about 200m of ascent over starting from Kinlochleven. The weather was superb with blue sky, sun and a little breeze to keep off the midges. I followed the landrover track towards Loch Eilde Mor until a stalkers track branched off to the left. This took me all the way to the Col between Binnein Beag and Binnein Mor at 750m, yet was almost never steep. At one point I rounded a corner to come face to face with a ptarmigan which was on a rock only a couple of metres away. I stopped and almost held my breath as we looked at each other. Eventually the ptarmigan croaked and flew away. I found this moment magical, and kept thinking about the beauty of the bird for some time.

From the Col it was a short and brutal scrabble to the summit of Binnein Beag. Like many smaller peaks it had a splendid view in this case of the headwaters of the Nevis and the wild country towards Loch Trieg. In the other direction I got an excellent preview of the route up Binnein Mor. However more peaks beckoned so I went speedily back down to the Col and slogged up to the summit of Binnein Mor, which I finally approached via the north-east ridge. This felt like the top of the world though to the north Ben Nevis and the Aonachs were clearly higher. The view was extensive and tucked away was a little stone with a painted tribute to a loved one. I wondered about who had put it there, and the person it was about.

Nothing lasts for ever and I turned towards the ridge leading to Na Grugaichean. As I crossed the lowest point I met the only people I saw on the hills all day, a part of four. Na Grugaichean has two summits, with the east one being higher. The cover of the SMC Munros book (1986 revision) has a photo of the west summit with Carn Mor Dearg in the distance. Now it was getting later in the day and my thoughts were turning to supper so I carried on over the twin summits and down to the Col with Stob Coire a'Chairn. Here another stalkers path appears which I followed. However I managed to miss the point where it doubled back across less steep ground so ended up with a jarring descent down almost 300m of hillside. At the bottom I rejoined the path and followed it back to Mamore Lodge.

When I think about this day, years later, the things I remember are the solitude and the ptarmigan. I am delighted that in our busy times it's still possible to walk all day and meet so few people. I also feel that I only had the fortune to see the ptarmigan because I was on my own - a group would probably have scared it away with their chatter and bustle.