Bidean nam Bian and Stob Coire Sgreamhach


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Bidean nam Bian (usually referred to as Bidean) is a massive and complicated mountain which dominates the south side of Glencoe.  It is the highest mountain in Argyll, yet the summit is very hard to see from the road.  The best view of the northern face is from the Aonach Eagach on the north side of Glencoe.

I had been wanting to climb Bidean for some, but didn't like the look of the usual routes from Loch Achtriochan which seemed to involve lots of steep slopes without much time actually on the tops.  However, after I had been up the zigzags on Gearr Aonach it occurred to me that the circuit of the Lost Valley (Coire Gabhail) would make a truly splendid day out and would include the summits of not only Bidean but also Stob Coire nan Lochan and Stob Coire Sgreamhach.

So in late May 1989 I set off from the main car park in Glencoe.  I followed the path to the Lost Valley until it was time to head up the right-hand (west) slopes for the start of the zigzags.  This is very easy to see from the other side of the valley as it coincides with a change in rock type, but takes a little more thought when 'on the spot'.  I located the start of the track and headed up to the top of Gearr Aonach.  Once there is was a lovely walk along fairly level ground, until the slopes of Stob Coire nan Lochan beckoned.  Here the ground steepens considerably and is covered in rocks of various sizes.  Eventually I reached the summit and had a break.

Here I had a chance to admire the rock scenery which was greatly enhanced by plenty of snow in the backs of the corries.  I occurred to me that the snow would limit escape routes, especially since I didn't have an ice axe with me.  However, the weather was splendid and the day long and I continued to the summit of Bidean itself.  An oddity of the OS sheet 41 is that the summits of Stob Coire nan Lochan (1115m) and Stob Coire Sgreamhach (1070m) have spot heights, whereas that of Bidean (1150m) doesn't.  Possibly this reflects the degree to which it is hidden from the road.

After some time sat on Bidean admiring the situation I decided to continue on.  As I approached the Col between Bidean and Stob Coire Sgreamhach I met a couple of chaps who decided to descend there.  The slope just below the Col is very steep - the OS have omitted some of the thin contour lines on the 1:50,000 map.  As I watched them start my heart was in my mouth, but they made a safe descent.

At that time Stob Coire Sgreamhach was a top rather than a Munro, but it was promoted in 1997.  I feel it unfair that Stob Coire nan Lochan hasn't also been promoted as it's a higher peak, but it's both nearer and has less decent and re-ascent separating it from Bidean.

From Stob Coire Sgreamhach my route turned north-east along the top of Beinn Fhada.  This allowed me to continue my walk on the tops for another couple of miles along a fairly narrow ridge.  In a couple of places there is some very mild scrambling, but the correct line is worn onto the rocks so is easy to follow.  However, at the 'nose' of the hill the fun started as there was no clear descent route to follow and I knew there were crags to be avoided.  Eventually I found a safe line which was a steep grassy rake on the east side.  I followed this down and made my way to cross the Allt Lairig Eilde just above the waterfall by the road.  I dangled my feet in the cool, clear water and enjoyed watching them turn white.  However the beneficial effects of this were lost in the 20-minute walk along the road back to the car.  So ended a fantastic day out!


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