Agags Groove

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Agags Groove is a classic climb.  Few routes of this grade have such a remarkable situation, combining a splendid view with a fair bit of exposure on a steep route - all on nice large sound holds!  'Classic Rock' contains Tom Weirs engaging description of one of his ascents.  It's also one of the routes which can be picked out with the naked eye from the road - the Groove of it's name is such a large feature.

When I climbed this route I was (for me) strong and fit.  There were two of us plus a most charming guide.  The approach was (as usual) from Lagangarbh via the Waterslide and Crowberry Basin.  We carried on to a small ledge at the bottom of a corner and put the gear on - rock boots, helmets and harness.  Very close was a crack behind a boulder which other people had also clearly used as a toilet.

The corner looked like the sort of climb I can have nightmares on, but it turned out to be quite straightforward - no doubt my fitness helped.  Not long after the top of this corner was the first belay in a fantastic situation on top of the groove.  We continued to the next belay just below the 'nose' of the climb.  As one climbs the nose the exposure is astounding, but the holds are so good that any fear is unnecessary.  We all followed slightly different lines across this part, illustrating that not only are the holds good - there are plenty of them!

In many ways this is the crux of the climb, though the initial corner is (IMHO) more technical.  A final easier pitch brought us to the end of the route, and we carried on up Crowberry Tower and then to the summit.  As I looked down the now-familiar view towards the car I suggested the time we would reach it.  As we walked over the bridge to Altnafeadh I checked my watch and was spot on.  Familiarity clearly breeds something!  I went to the Ballachulish Hotel for a bar meal, and sat contemplating the beauty of Ardgour as I sipped my drink.

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